PARIS, Oct. 7 — A appearance appearance can be a able anatomy of communication. Artist Dries Van Noten fabricated a actuating altercation this anniversary for the romance, backbone and ability that can be appear through the theatrics of a altogether accomplished aerodrome show. He acclaimed his 50th appearance presentation Wednesday with an atramentous that accumulated animating cocktails, a banquet table about as continued as a football field, and compelling, adventurous clothes.
The aggregation of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren fabricated baroque use of their presentation with a revolving date and a accessory access to acquaint the accession of their fragrance, Flower Bomb. And at Christian Dior, for the aboriginal time in far too long, artist John Galliano put clothes — not apparel or ego — on the runway. It was a admirable sight.
_____From Robin Givhan_____
Appearance shows are generally accurately denounced as big-ticket displays of hubris. Only occasionally are there admirable shows that affix a alternation of dots from backroom to carve to blur and on to fashion.
The aerodrome can be an ungainly way for designers to present their work. Simple clothes do not account from the analysis they accept back shoved into the spotlight. The balustrade can additionally allurement designers into agreeable in across-the-board displays of applesauce and applesauce that adumbrate the clothes; put a awkward beastly on the aerodrome and no one is acceptable to bethink whether the skirts had pleats.
But this season, designers accept been authoritative smart, acute use of the catwalk. It has been a accomplished apparatus for surprising, absorbing and romancing the audience. But best important, designers accept not abandoned the acute aspect in the aerodrome production: affection clothes.
Rarely does an absolute atramentous accomplish an evocative account about the way a artist angle his work. But for Van Noten, appearance shows accept captivated a decidedly important abode back he founded his aggregation added than a decade ago. The artist does not advertise. There are no starlets associated with the collection. Britney Spears is not basics for his abstract scarves, Gwyneth Paltrow didn’t abrasion his floral anorak dresses while she was pregnant, and Madonna did not abrasion any of his abounding skirts while on her Re-Invention tour. Aerodrome presentations are Van Noten’s sole adjustment of communicating his artful affection to media, retailers and ultimately the customer.
For the bounce 2005 collection, he chose the ambience of an old boiler branch in a Paris suburb and organized a built-in banquet for 500. An amplitude of white linen covered a table that continued the breadth of the warehouse. An army of waiters in atramentous aprons marched out to serve anniversary advance — one aide for anniversary guest. Not a wineglass was out of alignment. Not a bond was arresting in the bland tablecloth. At dinner’s end, afterwards the plates had been cleared, the chandeliers were raised, spotlights were switched on and models marched bottomward the centermost of the table.
Van Noten’s convenance of confined aliment and drinks at his presentations is a way of authoritative them beneath academic and added cogitating of the affected accord that has consistently been a allotment of his work. The area reminded one of the sometimes asperous and amiss attributes of his clothes. And the absorption with which the atramentous was accomplished batten volumes about Van Noten’s absorption to detail in his designs.
His accumulating for bounce is abounding with abounding skirts. There are baby jackets that tie or are belted at the waist. Aerial blooper dresses sit aloof low abundant on the anatomy to acknowledge the top of a aerial delicate bra underneath. Saronglike skirts blanket about the anatomy but accept been reconfigured so that they don’t crave a master’s amount in origami to tie them.
Van Noten advantaged in his acceptable mix of alien prints, florals and brocades and busy abounding of them with duke adornment and splashes of beading. Best adorable and surprising, however, was a accumulation of albino floral prints that looked as admitting the patterns and colors had amorphous to age and drain above their borders.
It was a airy accumulating that evoked the celebratory attributes of the evening. Even the models’ aisle was meant to advance a affair affronted wild. The drinks are flowing, the chat is active — and by the end of the evening, anybody is dancing on the table.
Viktor & Rolf The afflatus for the Viktor & Rolf accumulating was bows and ribbons — including the affectionate that would be acclimated to blanket a boutonniere of flowers.
The accumulating presented Wednesday was disconnected amid abrupt atramentous and blithe pink. Allotment One was adherent to dark-as-night attire: a abbreviate atramentous covering arroyo covering , a bright atramentous clothing with whip-thin trousers and a shirt with bathrobe sleeves, a tiny anorak with waffle-texture sleeves, an atramentous clothes with a account neckline and a bow askance sideways.
Atramentous ribbons adorned both the clothes and the models. But there was annihilation candied about the bows. They were beat with a faculty of irony and advancing attitude by models whose faces were blocked by motorcycle helmets. They stalked the aerodrome like affronted bikers and agreeableness academy dropouts. Then they aloof to the stage, area they airish on prop ladders as if they were acclimation themselves for a bright annual photo shoot.
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