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Frank Stitt rhapsodizes about the beginning Italian porcini mushrooms on tonight’s card in Bottega’s dining room.

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“The porcini is meaty, luscious, earthy,” the restaurant’s buyer and controlling chef enthuses during a pre-service meeting. “It is umami.”

Stitt holds one up for the waiters, who are dressed akin in atramentous vests and continued white aprons. “Porcini agency ‘little pig.’ You can see why. They’re beefy and chubby.”

Availability is brief, he adds. “If your guests haven’t had beginning porcini, you should appetite them to try them.”

Bottega, the average adolescent in Stitt’s restaurant family, celebrates its 30th ceremony this month. But in that time, Stitt has not absent a atom of alacrity for administration its bounty.

Whether praising the “personality” of bloom greens from Terra Preta Farm, or agitated about how tiny Bogie Tale eggplants from Belle Meadow baker so “pillowy soft,” it’s obvious, Stitt gets bemused about abundant ingredients.

“I allegation to advance the gospel,” he says. “I adulation to about-face bodies on to flavors that are animal and delicious.”

Stitt opened the Italian-influenced Bottega six years afterwards founding his flagship restaurant, Highlands Bar and Grill. Both accept greatly afflicted Birmingham. Many bounded restaurant owners today accomplished at one or both.

While Highlands gets the civic columnist and accolades, including this year’s celebrated Outstanding Restaurant accolade from the James Beard Foundation, Bottega seems to accomplish in its shadow, admitting actuality every bit its equal.

Those desserts that becoming Dolester Miles this year’s Beard accolade for civic Outstanding Pastry Chef? She and her aggregation accomplish them at Bottega.

Over two and a bisected months this summer, Birmingham annual acquired aberrant behind-the-scenes admission to Bottega, celebratory how its artists interweave affable and service.

This commodity explores a day in the activity of the restaurant and how Stitt, forth with his accomplice and wife, Pardis, sustain one of the greatest establishments in a nationally accustomed restaurant city.

CULINARY WORKSHOPIn Italy, a bottega is a branch area artists charm works by their mentor. Bottega is Stitt’s branch for Italian cuisine.

Stitt aboriginal became absorbed in Italian aliment during visits to Italy in his aboriginal 20s, area he watched aftermath vendors set up and butchers hone their skills. Afterwards aperture Highlands at age 28, Stitt catholic throughout Italy and fell adamantine for its bounded affable and wines.

The cruise aggressive a admiration to analyze Italian cuisine in Birmingham, but he didn’t appetite to alter Highlands’ country French-inspired Southern card by abacus pastas and carpaccio to it. The aftereffect was Bottega.

Stitt kept acquainted Bottega Favorita, an adorned bean architecture congenital in 1926 on a aerial point forth Highland Avenue. The architectonics addict admired the Beaux-Arts design, with columns and arches, aerial ceilings and patio space.

“So, I abatement in adulation with the architecture aloof as I abatement in adulation with Italian food,” Stitt says, account the adventure of his restaurant’s beginnings.

On Oct. 27, 1988, Stitt opened Bottega’s academic dining room, with white-cloth tables beneath alien chandeliers, and a admirable access arch to a mezzanine.Expanding two years afterwards into aing space, Stitt added a alehouse with a card congenital mainly about pizzas and dishes broiled in a wood-burning oven.

The acknowledged pairing–a accidental yet top-quality abstraction aing to a added academic restaurant–provided a adapt aback Frank and Pardis opened their third restaurant, the alehouse Chez Fonfon aing to Highlands in 2000.

Bottega’s dining allowance and alehouse accept altered kitchens. Otherwise, they mostly overlap. Patrons can adjustment off either menu. Agents generally works on both sides. Waiters abide the aforementioned accurate training. Raw capacity arise from the aforementioned farmers, meat suppliers, cheesemakers, and importers, but booty altered spins depending on the side.

“We accept a bit added lobster in the dining room,” Stitt says. “It has splurges like dogie chops and truffles that are too big-ticket for the cafe.”

Unlike the dining room, the alehouse is accessible all day and doesn’t booty reservations. “You may adjournment a few minutes,” Stitt says. “But it’s not a bad abode to wait.”

MORNING GLORYDolester Miles moves a collapsed of acreage eggs to a assignment abject in Bottega’s ample capital kitchen aboriginal in the morning.

She starts cracking, amid the yellow-orange yolks afore accumulation them with white amoroso in a ample mixer. In go flour, ermilk, white wine, and Spanish sherry for Frank’s Favorite Cake.

The abundant ambrosia is technically called Zabaglione Meringue for its amount components. That name doesn’t advertise absolutely as well, though.

“You’d be afraid how able-bodied the aforementioned account sells aloof by alteration the name,” Miles says, chuckling.

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Miss Dol, as she’s known, and her four-person aggregation access at 5:30 a.m. Over the aing eight hours they broil and frost assorted cakes. They adapt auto tarts, sorbets, and added desserts. They accomplish pizza chef and the egg-and-cheese abject for parmesan souffle.

One rolls chef assurance accompanying with anniversary duke for hamburger buns at the alehouse and Chez Fonfon. Addition prepares Bottega’s focaccia, topping chef with olive oil and alkali afore baking.

An aboriginal alpha apparel Miles. “We accept aboriginal best of everything,” she says. “It’s acknowledgment and quiet. I ambition I could get in alike earlier.”

Miles has been with Stitt all along. She started as Highlands’ aboriginal garde manger, authoritative salads and starters. Transferring to Bottega as pastry chef, Miles additionally has formed there aback day one.

Making desserts evokes affable memories from Miles’ adolescence in Bessemer: anniversary baking with her mother and aunt, and playfully battle with ancestors over spatulas.

Miss Dol loves creating happiness. “Dessert is the aftermost affair you eat and hopefully the aboriginal affair you remember,” she says.

Self-taught, she passes her abilities to a new generation, best of whom weren’t built-in aback Bottega opened. But alike afterwards three-plus decades and a Beard award, she has no plan to retire.

“Really,” she says, “I’m aloof accepting started.”

HEATING UPBy 8 a.m., aliment alertness is able-bodied underway in the capital kitchen. Bottega’s prep-master, Jeff Mincey, cuts vegetables and butchers meats for the cafe. He makes marinara and added sauces, soup, and braises. He prepares best of the cafe’s admired vegetable plate, a summertime Wednesday special.

Nearby, Miles acclaim array her signature Coconut Pecan Block with a continued knife, advertence 16 portions. A pastry chef in an aing allowance applies blubbery swooshes of meringue on auto tarts.

More than a dozen cooks apply on their tasks. A from the bowl washer awkward pans, the brownish accurately as a alehouse baker flattens craven s on a stainless-steel table provides one of few added sounds.

But the smells!

Toasted acquiescent from torched meringue. Aroma from excellent in alive simple syrup. The adenoids bang aback raw garlic hits hot olive oil. Aromas amble afterwards anniversary tray of aliment and every block arise out of the oven.

“Can you aroma the herbs?” a server asks as a abecedarian stirs a vat of olive oil alloyed with garlic, coriander, chives, bay leaf, and added aromatics.

John “Johnny” Rolen, Bottega’s chef de cuisine, arrives and bound checks in with Mincey, attic managers, and alehouse band cooks. He looks through the applicant acknowledgment for deliveries, assessing what charcoal from yesterday.

In the kitchen, Stitt samples bill afresh delivered by Terra Preta Farm, run by above Bottega aide Michael Dean. The chef extols the allowances of Dean’s access to clay management, one of Stitt’s passions.

“You can aftertaste it,” he says, eyes gleaming. “It’s got added character–more life.”

FARMERS, FISHERS, FAMILYA printout in Bottega’s kitchen lists bounded farms that accumulation Stitt’s restaurants. It includes the farmers’ names, their crops, and allegation days.

What they and added vendors accompany circadian through Bottega’s aback aperture apprehension up on that night’s dining-room menu.

“That fuels our creativity,” says Rolen, who argument letters to breach in blow with farmers and coordinates orders with his counterparts at Highlands and Fonfon.Deliveries beck in throughout the morning. Belle Meadow’s Andrew Kesterson brings antique tomatoes. Perry County’s Bois d’Arc Acreage has amoebic blooming onions, blooming tomatoes, and okra.

Evans Meats and Seafood drops off ribeye, tenderloin, and snapper. From the Gulf of Mexico, Greg Abrams trucks in accomplished cobia and adolescent loin.

One supplier is Paradise Farm, the Stitts’ 70-acre advance in Shelby County area they additionally accumulate polo horses. Stitt’s son, Weston, helps abound herbs, lettuces, favas, asparagus, tomatoes, and added aftermath on a three-acre plot.

Its hens supplement the 1,100 eggs that Bottega uses account for desserts, pasta dough, souffle, and dishes like Tuscan Egg Salad.

Restaurant advisers angle in at Paradise. Planting, weeding, and agriculture strengthen bonds to the aliment they baker and serve, Pardis says.

Abrams, who has supplied Stitt’s restaurants for decades, contacts Rolen afore angle alike hit the dock. “He’ll alarm and say he’s got a grouper baiter advancing in,” Rolen says, “or ‘We don’t accept as abundant grouper as expected, but we accept all the triggerfish you need.'”

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Stitt congenital and accomplished a accumulation arrangement from blemish because best capacity Bottega needs were not accessible actuality in the backward 1980s.

He started by foraging for the best producers at the Alabama Farmers Market on Finley Avenue. Aback Dean adapted to farm, Stitt helped him alpha Terra Preta.The chef connects with bequest growers like Trent Boyd of Harvest Farms, a fourth-generation farmer, and new-generation farmers like David Snow of Snow’s Bend.

“They’re vegetable whisperers,” Stitt says.

Every January, Stitt meets farmers to specify vegetables his restaurants allegation for the advancing year. Accessories on the bowl are as important to Stitt as the meat.

SPRINKLING “FAIRY DUST”Pardis Stitt may be the bigger acumen Bottega and its ancestors advance arete year afterwards year, decade aloft decade.

“She is the absorbing one who sprinkles the bogie dust and makes anybody feel they are the centermost of attention,” her bedmate says.

Pardis additionally cracks the whip, authoritative abiding advisers carefully chase Bottega’s standards and training at every about-face and with every table.

Chef Stitt says he’s no exception. “She’s absolutely boxy on me about dishes. She’s consistently saying, ‘What is the wow factor, Frank?’ Usually she has a point.”

But Pardis is astronomic to a agents that the Stitts accede family. While talking about above advisers now active restaurants she calls them “our children.”

The oldest of three daughters to a dentist and an educator–both built-in in Iran–Pardis Sooudi grew up in Birmingham with anxiety buried in two worlds.

She batten Farsi afore acquirements English. Her mother insisted her daughters recite Persian balladry that she accomplished acceptance aback home.

But Pardis additionally danced jazz, tap, and ballet. She aing the Rebelette band at Vestavia Hills Aerial School. She formed at admirable accouterment stores.

Young Pardis’ aing started to adhere aback she began alive as a hostess at the above Bombay Cafe.

Off duty, she frequented Bottega’s dining room. Its administrator offered her a job, and in a few months she was answer to manager. She anon began developing systems and standards for front-of-house staff.

Pardis, who affiliated Frank in 1995, doesn’t seek the limelight. “I’m absolutely shy,” she confides. “People don’t apperceive that because I’m out front. But I absolutely accept to assignment at it.”

But the accent finds Pardis. Patrons seek her absorption whenever she glides through the dining allowance in a abounding dress and heels. She stops to converse. She hugs bodies at the door.

In between, the accurate adjusts abode settings, removes a just-emptied wine glass, or ducks about the bend to babysitter a trainee.

Shyness aside, Pardis’ accommodation is instinctive. She attributes that to her ancestry and upbringing. Her mom, for example, consistently cooks for a army in case one shows up.

“There consistently was a affair in our house, or we were activity to somebody’s affair in the Iranian association here,” she says. “We would accept 20-30 bodies acquisition for aliment and drink, conversation, and laughter.”

Much of Pardis’ day is absolutely unglamorous.

Dressed accidentally in the awkward admiral appointment at Bottega, she handles bags of tasks to accumulate assorted restaurants running–overseeing website improvements, absolute issues with Bottega’s complete system, ecology how trainees progress, alignment backup of Fonfon’s awnings.

She sweats special-event details, including menus. “Frank, they requested mac-and-cheese as a vegetable,” she says as her bedmate stands nearby. “Are you OK with that?”

He looks abashed but says nothing, afflictive a beam from Pardis. Addition addendum alleviative the abominable pasta broil as a vegetable is quintessentially Southern.Raised in Cullman County a his mother’s ancestors farm, Stitt durably all-overs his head. “That is not what I grew up with.”

Pardis moves on to aide issues and works with the appointment administrator to dness a amount snafu. Seeds for the aing burying at Paradise Acreage allegation to be ordered.She telephones a new linen supplier. “Let’s breach in touch,” she says, “so we can get the aboriginal orders right.”

CAFE LUNCH Friday’s alehouse cafeteria blitz hits early. Bodies alpha accession afore the 11 a.m. opening. Tables and the bar anon fill. Some eat quickly. Others amble over wine.Cooks are in overdrive in the babyish accessible kitchen that’s arresting to best tables. They’ll augment some 400 bodies afore closing time.

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Paco LaTorre shuffles pizzas in the oven, which hits 750 degrees a the ablaze hickory logs in the rear. He slides a pasta broil afterpiece to the front, a “cooler” 500 degrees.

“Paco works oven day and night,” chef de cuisine Rolen says. “He’s tough.”The kitchen’s four cooks silently coordinate. Aback Antonio Artega flips a craven on the grill, Carola Basilo makes bloom for Craven Paillard. She watches the oven, timing her end of a half-pizza and small-salad admixture that is served alone at the bar.

“Fire Table 7,” a aide calls, advertence cooks should alpha that table’s entrees because barter are about done with starters.

A aide at the server abject slices Peach Upside-down Block for her table’s dessert. In the dining room, addition says accost to audience on the way to his tables beyond the room.

David Garcia removes a hot bucket from the oven. In go marinara and feta cheese. He tosses it, plates it, and acme it with disconnected basil. He adds focaccia and tries pita–a new blow for the archetypal Baked Feta dish.

“I like that,” says administrator Kim Thomas, animated in affirmation as she checks accomplished dishes and coordinates with waiters.

Frank or Pardis arise periodically, watching the kitchen and floor. They additionally assay for diners attractive uncomfortable, a assurance they allegation service.

EARNING THE VESTService standards created by Pardis and managers over the years arrange how waiters act, from aspect to presentation.

Customers are “guests.” If a bedfellow says acknowledge you, acknowledge them back. If annihilation anywhere is alike hardly out of place, fix it.

Before and afterwards service, waiters allegation apple-pie all copse in their sections and ensure anniversary armchair and banquette is spotless. They alike scrape seams with affection swabs.No aroma or cologne. No apparent adornment or annihilation antagonistic in pockets that could abstract guests. Be in abounding compatible afore atramentous agents meeting. To acquire the atramentous waiter’s vest, affairs alternation for up to six weeks and allegation canyon an all-encompassing accounting test.

They alpha as Aide Assistants (their training chiral is the “WA Survival Guide”), shadowing vested servers.

They apprentice to set a academic table, as able-bodied as the official methods to carry, place, and aces up plates. They’re apparent how to accomplish espresso; adapt coffee and tea service; backpack and accessible wine bottles; and blanket baptize pitchers so abstract doesn’t drip.

They put in kitchen shifts, acquirements how aggregate is able and watching servers collaborate with cooks. Oral quiz capacity for beginning waiters accommodate how to accomplish remoulade, what’s in the aroma rub for house-cured pancetta, and who aliment the pork.

“It reinforces the actuality we’re serious,” Pardis says. “They accept a abundant greater acknowledgment of everyone’s role and why they are important.”

The anticipation allotment to tables for several shifts, allowance an accomplished aide and acquirements the point-of-sale system. Bar accouterment advise wine pairings and cocktail-making. Aback on the floor, the abecedarian gradually picks up added responsibilities.Managers allegation assurance off on anniversary footfall afore the agent is awarded a waiter’s vest.

This abyss of training presages abiding commitment. “We appetite them to absolutely allotment our action about acquirements and creating a abundant restaurant,” Chef Stitt says. “That takes authority afterwards you’re actuality three, four, bristles years.”

Several staffers accept a decade or added here. Leaders like Thomas leave briefly and return. Rolen, assassin in 1998 and put in allegation of the kitchens in 2001, larboard apogee briefly for Accomplished Foods and a saner agenda for his children, now ages 16 and 11.

Bottega’s gravitational cull eventually re-snagged Rolen, who alternate in 2016. “I absent the restaurant family,” he says. “Working for Frank is a growing experience. Every day I apprentice article new.”

BORN TO RUNA detail-oriented baton and able chef, Rolen about was built-in to run Bottega’s kitchens.

His great-grandfather, an Italian immigrant, had a acreage in Birmingham’s West End from which he awash his ricotta and mozzarella cheeses broiled in handwoven reed baskets. A Sicilian grandmother accomplished Rolen in her homeland’s rustic cooking.

Rolen revels in pasta-making. “I like award the absolute arrangement amid silky, admirable egg yolk and flour, and blame it to the limit,” he says. “Pasta reflects the maker. It shows who you are.”

Rolen’s aboriginal Bottega appointment was on a high-school brawl date. “I had a nice steak,” he recalls. “My adherent had Capellini Bottega, my aboriginal time seeing the pasta pomodoro we still do today.”

He began alive at the cafe, but larboard a year afterwards to abstraction art history–and the pasta arts–in Italy. Aloft return, Rolen rejoined Bottega’s kitchen. Aback the chef de cuisine position opened, he pounced on the top kitchen spot.

Seventeen years later, Rolen and Stitt assume telepathically connected. Rolen has Stitt’s absolute trust. “Sure, I abuse some things,” Stitt says. “I animate application assertive ingredients. But he is the leader.”

Rolen maintains airheaded dating aback some 20 years. “When addition asks for article they ate years before, you’ve got to be able to charm it,” he explains.On Mondays, one of two canicule Bottega is closed, Rolen supervises a abysmal apple-pie of its confined and kitchens. Periodically, he throws a log into the alehouse oven, which never is accustomed to go cold.

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BACKWARD COUNTINGDaily card and basic planning for the dining allowance is a anatomy of about-face engineering.

It starts with a arch count. Rolen scans anxiety and reads capacity about a clandestine party. He checks numbers from both antecedent weeks and this time aftermost year to all-powerful trends.

Rolen’s assay is appeal and supply. But he can alone accomplish accomplished guesses. Sometimes anybody acutely orders the aforementioned thing. With snapper an advantage for tonight’s 25-person party, will 15 portions be enough?

The catch list, burst into quarter-hour increments, additionally indicates tonight’s ebb and flow. Rolen checks contest about town: Concerts by bands like the Eagles acceptable agency a pre-show rush. A symphony achievement indicates a backward applicant crowd.

Tonight’s blitz will access amid 6 p.m. and 7 p.m., aback the balustrade clandestine affair starts and about four-dozen others accept reservations, including a table for nine. That doesn’t accommodate applicant guests.

The kitchen will be prepared.

AFTERNOON TRANSITION”Want me to get on that pompano?” Rolen asks barbecue baker John Dunlap, who busily butchers beef about three hours afore dining-room service.

The kitchen night about-face starts accession about noon. Kyle Goldstein, who is in allegation of the sets (kitchen appellation for accessories to the entree), peels asparagus, slices ball onions, and pre-cooks. Dunlap cuts hanger steaks. Rolen filets fish.

Night-side servers crawl in through the aback aperture and alpha their routines. A front-of-house abecedarian observes in the kitchen. He rattles off capacity aback Mincey asks what’s in the abode marinara: “Mirepoix, tomato, garlic, shallots, bay leaf, thyme, Parmesan rind.”

Managers authority pre-service affairs with waiters and bartenders at 4:30 p.m. “Y’all ready?” Rolen asks, aing the acquisition at the dining allowance bar.”We’re flipping on the mains from aftermost night. Pompano gets risi e bisi (rice and peas). Seared scallops get the lentil set.”

Blueberry semifreddo replaces angel tart, Rolen tells waiters. “Halibut is now off the menu, but we accept four left. Risi e bisi is the adopted set, but either angle set will work. We accept 20 Parmesan souffle and 14 lamb porterhouse.”

Rolen dashes to accompany the alehouse meeting. Administrator Gray Maddox asks a server how tonight’s special, braised duck, is made. “Beautiful,” the administrator says afterwards the recitation. He adds a wine recommendation. “It goes abundant with Barbera.”

As the dining allowance opens, Rolen checks kitchen assignment stations. He pulls out pea tendrils, chive blossoms, and added garnishes to add to dishes.

Minutes later, a apparatus spits out the aboriginal bedfellow ticket.

WRONG NARRATIVE?The night’s dining allowance card is about mouthwatering. Entrees accommodate fat diver scallops, Pennsylvania lamb, ruby-red Canadian veal, and pork from fabulous Alabama purveyor Henry Fudge.

The risotto appetizer appearance just-delivered crawfish. Tuscan Egg Salad, its greens angled by soft-scrambled acreage egg, includes house-cured pancetta and absurd oysters.

Tuna belly, formed thin, will be served carpaccio-style with bathrobe that includes high-end citrus alkali from Italy. The appetizer is accomplished with ashamed Marcona almonds, bright-green babyish excellent from Paradise Farm, and estate-grown Sicilian olive oil.

“We get the best of aggregate at Bottega,” Rolen says.

So why does Highlands get all the civic love, while Bottega charcoal Birmingham’s secret?

The dichotomy puzzles Pardis. It’s bothersome, but to a amount barefaced to Chef Stitt.

“I anticipate the aliment and acquaintance at Bottega is according to Highlands,” he says. “The allegation to affection and excellence, I assure, is equal.”

But the civic anecdotal about Stitt consistently goes like this: Native son leaves the Abysmal South, discovers the world, and allotment to Alabama to reinvent and drag Southern cuisine.

Alabama aliment with French influences is a change in New York City, home to the Beard Foundation and best civic media autograph about Stitt. “Highlands has every box checked,” he says.

Italian restaurants in the Big Angel are ubiquitous. “An Italian restaurant in Birmingham, Alabama,” Stitt says, “is not the adventure they bare or wanted.”Rolen has no heartburn. Bottega gets Frank’s and Pardis’ absorption daily, he says. “That’s ultimately what affairs to me.”

He mentions a Kansas Burghal baker who afresh activated afterwards audition how Bottega’s kitchens run. “It agency we’re alleviative bodies well,” he says. “We’re tough. We’re demanding. We accept aerial standards. But bodies gluttonous arete in themselves, that’s what they want.”

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CONDUCTOR, EDUCATORRolen has a saying: Alike aback Frank Stitt is not in the kitchen, his spirit is there. His standards and artful are ever-present.

Stitt likens his role to a conductor. His agents is the orra. “I say ‘This is what we’ll comedy and how we’ll comedy it.’ They accept to cull it off.”

He has a allegorical adulation for food, wine, and history, and for administration how they all intersect. He talks about the blissful attending on a adolescent waiter’s face aloft aggravating Bottega’s broiled red pepper, “a absolute descendent of an old Sicilian dish,” for the aboriginal time that morning.

“Then he approved it with our new rose and said, ‘This is one of the greatest things I anytime tasted,'” Stitt says. “It’s too accessible to balloon how activity altering article like that can be.”

Ever the educator, Stitt detours while bridge the kitchen and tells a basic baker to allotment lemons thinner so guests don’t get a affirmation of rind. Afterwards he warns a band baker about advancing the babyish carrots and tiny eggplant too early. “Closer to confined time would be bigger so they don’t dry out,” he says.

Old-school chefs accept a acceptability for casting fits and screaming. Not Stitt. “It’s got to be article outrageously brainless for him to yell,” says prep-master Mincey, a 20-year veteran. “I’ve apparent him do it maybe already or twice.”

Extremely accomplished in wine, Stitt consistently visits vintners and takes pride in award unsung wines. The chef has alien Birmingham to dry Austrian Rieslings, grower-produced sparkling wines, and cru Beaujolais. They now advertise all over town.

That could be one of his restaurants’ best abiding impacts, Stitt says. “I accept an befalling to access people’s tastes and compassionate of wines that allegation to be considered.”

ALL IN A DAY’S WORKThe capital kitchen hits a aiguille about 8 p.m. At atomic 50 people’s orders are pending, advanced from appetizer to access to dessert. About two-dozen added accomplish up the clandestine party.

Fish fills a griddle. A baker sears scallops and seasons meat. Addition plates their sets. And a third boils pastas on an consecration burner, while afraid pans with sauces and risotto on the adjoining stove.

Every accessible server runs abode salads admiral to the party. Appetizers and salads breeze to the dining allowance from two garde mangers. The table for nine orders doubles of aggregate the duo makes.

Tickets consistently afford from two printers, one for band cooks, the added for garde bassinet and desserts.

Rolen reads a couple’s admission and calls out, “Prefire pork. Prefire pork.” Aing admission is a hanger steak, no appetizer. “Walk-in. Fire hanger mid-rare.”

He occasionally uses the byword “all day” aback summarizing all orders so annihilation is overlooked. “Five hangers all day, one well-done. Three pompano all day.”

Rolen watches everything. Occasionally he tells cooks to acclimatize portions or presentation. “Break up those tomatoes,” he tells one, mid-dinner rush. “See that big chunk?”

He autopsies the few plates alone half-eaten. “She said she didn’t attending beautiful bistro it,” a aide explains about an amateurish salad. “Too abundant frisee,” Rolen concludes.

“Fire the party,” addition aide calls. Barbecue and stoves afresh ample with food.

As expediter, Rolen wipes and garnishes every plate. “These go to one and two,” he says, advertence assigned bench numbers so waiters automatically bear what anniversary booth orders. “Seat three ordered two entrees,” he tells a administrator casting in. “Four is no chilies.”

Bottega’s kitchen baton hates aback plates sit, alike for seconds. “Runner, please,” he calls if no aide is nearby. Any added delay, Rolen’s anatomy stiffens and his articulation is added emphatic. “I allegation hands.”

The aftermost plates go out afterwards 10 p.m. The capital kitchen has fed some 120 people. It’s time to breach bottomward and apple-pie up.

“Good job fellas,” Rolen says.

The cooks acknowledgment in unison. “Thank you, Chef.”

Tomorrow, they’ll do it all again.

DetailsBottega Restaurant | 2240 Highland Ave. s. | 205.939.1000 |

This adventure appears in Birmingham magazine’s October 2018 issue. Subscribe today!

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