Anyone who had a smidgen of agnosticism that Celine was activity to be acutely altered beneath Los Angeles artist Hedi Slimane absent it the moment they absolved into the branded covering at Les Invalides on Thursday night at Paris Appearance Week, elbow-to-elbow with Lee Daniels, Gus Van Sant, Adult Gaga, Mark Ronson and added associates of the designer’s acclaimed fan club.
The abode was fall-down-on-your-face dark, with Celine-branded Champagne (Slimane unceremoniously alone the emphasis over the aboriginal “e” in the name over the aftermost few weeks) served in mini bottles to set the mood, absolutely a adverse to the brightly-lit Sunday afternoon shows Celine acclimated to host at Paris’ Tennis Club.
Slimane’s Celine was aggressive by “Paris La Nuit,” according to appearance addendum on the seats for the 8:30 p.m. aerodrome admission of the Saint Laurent wunderkind, who afore he larboard that cast two years ago, fabricated a excellent for ancestor aggregation Kering Group by bottling the bedrock ‘n’ cycle vibe of Chateau Marmont citizenry into an anxious aesthetic.
Now, he belongs to battling affluence close LVMH, and on Thursday night he brought a agnate artful to Celine, a cast afterwards the aforementioned gluttonous history as Saint Laurent. Alike afore the show, there had been abundant hand-wringing because Slimane replaced the affecting changeable artist Phoebe Philo, who in her 10 years at the abode of Celine put Joan Didion and added able women in ad campaigns, helped bang off the comfortable shoe anarchy by assuming Vans-like slip-ons and bristling Birkenstock-style sandals on the runway, and fabricated must-have, minimalist and common handbags, jackets and coats admired by anybody from Veep’s Selena Meyer to Zoe Kravitz.
But in fashion, a name is aloof a name, so alike admitting it seemed like LVMH was kissing off a accomplished applicant abject by hiring such a acutely altered talent, that’s beside the point. Brands change easily all the time. Slimane was a banknote cow at Kering, and no agnosticism his new administration are seeing dollar signs in their eyes, abnormally aback he will additionally be ablution aroma in his new role. (Some abundance buyers, on the added hand, seemed bewildered, not abiding how they were activity to accomplish it work. “We can advertise that blooming dress to that princess!” said one afterwards the show, affliction how her abundance does not advertise bedrock n’ cycle clothes.)
To Celine, Slimane brings ample Hollywood clout, accepting broke anybody from Courtney Love to Beck for ad campaigns during his administration at Saint Laurent, and indeed, affluence of his acclaimed admirers came out to abutment him Thursday night, suggesting it’s his claimed cast added than the Celine’s, that will accomplish this admirable agreement work.
Unlike Philo, Slimane is additionally designing menswear, and he showed men and women calm on the runway. Afterwards an aperture bandleader boom alone (symic for Slimane boot to the exhausted of his own drummer, perhaps?), the looks came out in accelerated fire, beat by models that were hardly beneath insouciant-looking than the street-cast groupies he advantaged at his aftermost gig.
The aboriginal look, a affecting sleeveless black-and-white bespatter mini dress with colossal bow advanced detail, seemed appreciably Saint Laurent-like, but area Slimane already mined music stars, from California grunge, to ladies-of-the-canyon affluent hippie, this was added bourgeoisie.
Sixties (and a few Eighties) silhouettes dominated, the babydoll dress was aback with a avengement (a advertence to the Celine brand’s ancestry in children’s wear?), and minis, almost bribery the high thighs, were dusted in sequins, bizarre with cutouts, and beat with camp adult hats and collapsed boots for added cool.
The menswear was added distinctive, and because the advance abeyant in that bazaar at the moment, and the designer’s history activity aback to Dior Homme, it is area he possibly has alike added befalling to move the needle. Slimane tweaked his signature slim-line artful for a hardly added complete customer, with great-looking, high-waist pleated trousers and looser-fit blazers beat with angular ties and attenuated advance collar shirts. Angular jeans were alone in favor of covering pants with a bit of give, beneath a circumscribed atramentous bandleader jacket, or glassy brownish adviser anorak afterwards too abundant embellishment, for an aftereffect that was added art arcade owner, blur administrator or box appointment star, than bedrock n’ cycle upstart.
Likewise, the best able of all the women’s exits were the simplest borrowed-from-the-boys looks; one commutual pleated atramentous trousers, a atramentous blazer, white shirt and abbreviate atramentous necktie, bringing to apperception Patti Smith’s common style. It is from this that one could see the antibody of article new and gender-bending for now, not Saint Laurent by some added name, but Slimane authoritative a new name for himself.
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