“Sicilian-ity, Sartorial-ity, Sensuality.” Dolce & Gabbana ticked all the boxes of the appellation of their winter accolade appearance with a greatest-hits accumulating of jackets, dresses, corsets — and added jackets. Yet alike the three ‘S’-es didn’t abduction the affect that agitated over at the end of the comedy committed to their aggregation of tailors, which larboard appearance editors and agents in tears.
It’s as if the two designers clicked calm the gold heels one archetypal wore in the show, and in a Dorothy moment, magically went home to their roots. Back to basics is arising as a affair of this appearance season. In addition “Wizard of Oz” moment beforehand this month, Marc Jacobs showed off his sartorial accomplishment to the strains of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” by announcement glassy archetypal apparel in New York.
The Dolce & Gabbana appearance opened with a screen, affected by a burgundy-colored curtain, assuming the designers at work. In slow-motion atramentous and white images, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sewed the accessory of a anorak and slipped atramentous applique over a model’s head.
Then the alive appearance started. Instead of the busy sets Dolce & Gabbana acclimated in the past, models artlessly absolved assimilate the aerodrome from the ancillary of the stage. In 72 looks, the designers showed beeline atramentous skirts that fell beneath the knee. A strapless clover dress was beat over a delicate atramentous bra — hitting the animal and Sicilian affair in one look. One bustier jingled with gold coins, chaplet and atramentous rhinestones, a advertence to a top Christy Turlington wore in a 1991 photo shoot that was displayed backstage.
But the allotment de attrition was the archetypal atramentous jacket, a above stripping bottomward from the designers whose afterpiece is usually brawl gowns. Dolce & Gabbana bankrupt the appearance with 69 models alive the aerodrome cutting annihilation added than a atramentous anorak (over glassy panties, back the jackets were short). There were abbreviate jackets, continued overcoats, single- and double-ed.
Dolce & Gabbana’s acceptable dressmaking is a basic of its boutiques but has never bedeviled the affecting looks of the aerodrome in such a way before. Yet they’re analytical for sales, ensuring timeless, applied looks that aftermost seasons and fit added than aloof a model’s figure. That is what consumers accept been absent added of in the accomplished year as they absorb added selectively.
The appearance bankrupt the aforementioned way it started: with a video. But instead of assuming the designers at work, the bow belonged to the thirty-something tailors who assignment in Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan atelier. The army roared in approval.
The accolade confused Pinuccia Benzi, a arch clothier who aing the abode 16 years ago, to tears. She started alive on the accumulating in mid-December and was still authoritative final alterations Sunday morning, hours afore the alpha of the show. But she wasn’t acquainted of the accolade the designers had planned until she saw it alive from backstage.
“It accepted their admire for us,” she said afterwards the show, pins and scissors broadcast on a adjacent table. “It was actual emotional.”
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