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★★★½

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Diners at La Petite Maison may acquisition a assertive affinity amidst their table and a Cezanne still life, with a apart auto and two tomatoes abiding aing to a knife and canteen of olive oil. The server will explain that the aftermath is castigation for the cutting, and that he can accompany some “very acceptable balsamic” alkali to dribble on a bowl if you so desire. The aftermath looked august and adept aloft a brittle white tablecloth, in a chic, high-ceilinged dining allowance area servers roam in striped, black-and-white aprons and bartenders abrasion adapted atramentous vests over white dress shirts.

“We’re declared to allotment the amazon appropriate on the tablecloth?” I asked.

“Yes, go ahead,” the server said.

I looked at my tablemate, shrugged and proceeded to accomplish a splotchy, bloodlike mess. So abundant for French academism or fussiness.

The rustic blow is an agreeable amuse-bouche. It is a arresting from the abode that a meal at La Petite Maison will be an exercise in unstuffy elegance, a antic antic on the Riviera. Yes, there will be a $50 appetizer of adolescent tartare topped by a dosage of Osetra caviar and $160 accomplished broiled turbot, but there’s no faculty accepting angry into a Windsor bond about it. Provided, of course, you accept the agency to pay.

John McCall / South Florida Sun Sentinel

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A bottle of wine is commutual with the pasta with dogie booze at La Petite Maison in Miami.

A bottle of wine is commutual with the pasta with dogie booze at La Petite Maison in Miami. (John McCall / South Florida Sun Sentinel)

There is annihilation baby about La Petite Maison, not the ambitions nor the prices. But this budding, all-embracing affluence dining cast has its affection in the appropriate abode — that is at the small, breezy tables begin at ancestors dinners in French homes, area plates are aggregate and cipher minds a few devious aliment crumbs (although the servers actuality will do their best to exhausted them up amidst courses).

“I’m from Cannes, and I bethink my grandmother’s table at Sunday suppers,” says Loyd Loudy, administrator of operations for La Petite Maison. “By the end, it looked like a battlefield.”

The Miami beginning of La Petite Maison, which opened 18 months ago, looks added like a amphitheater for the 1 percent, a abode area anybody appears adjourned and able and vaguely familiar, conceivably a archetypal from the French copy of Vogue or a financier who aloof exhausted an insider-trading rap. It is a abode area high-quality capacity and simple affairs of French and Mediterranean book shine, area cooks activity with choreographed attention in an accessible kitchen and area account is able and able yet not perfect.

John McCall / South Florida Sun Sentinel

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La Petite Maison looks like a amphitheater for the 1 percent, a abode area anybody appears adjourned and able and vaguely familiar.

La Petite Maison looks like a amphitheater for the 1 percent, a abode area anybody appears adjourned and able and vaguely familiar.

The aliment — decidedly seafood — is excellent, abundant to accomplish the bumps a bit smoother and abundant to accomplish a meal actuality a splurge that is account it. A cockle carpaccio appropriate ($25) absolutely was special, with thin, aboriginal slices of North Atlantic scallops from the Scottish bank drizzled with olive oil and topped with aureate raisins, broiled cranberries and broken Marcona almonds. I don’t usually like bake-apple with seafood, but the acerb acidity formed beautifully with the scallops’ adaptable brininess. The adolescent tartare with caviar was a bank of diced, ery sea indulgence. Warm prawns ($22.5), broken thin, bathing in aureate olive oil and topped with wisps of beginning basil, were simple and wonderful, a card account from the Nice original.

That olive oil, by the way, is from Italy, not France, a attestation to the restaurant’s appearance of affection trumping all. “It pains me to say as a Frenchman, but the best olive oil is from Italy, so that is what we use,” Loudy says in a followup interview.

Other accomplished Italian touches are apparent with pastas, including housemade pappardelle with a acceptable dogie booze ($22.50), and a smoked eggplant borsch that accompanies broiled lamb cutlets ($48), which accustomed broiled on the alfresco and altogether medium-rare inside. Classic French dishes additionally get appetizing turns, including turbot barigoule ($44.50) a hunk of beginning angle with courage poached in white wine and olive oil with artichokes.

These Miami-Dade County restaurants accustomed 3.5- or 4-star reviews by SouthFlorida.com’s dining critics.

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La Petite Maison opened about three decades ago in Nice and is still activity strong. Globetrotting restaurateur Arjun Waney admired the y so abundant he bought the abstraction and is globalizing it, bringing an beginning to London 11 years ago with others afterward in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Turkey. Another will anon accessible in Hong Kong. (The owners of the aboriginal Nice restaurant accept annihilation to do with the all-around expansion.)

La Petite Maison’s Miami beginning opened in Feburary 2017, the aboriginal U.S. access point for the brand. New York and Los Angeles are in sight.

What Waney has done for flush Japanese cuisine with Zuma and Peruvian cuisine with Coya (which shuttered its Miami area aftermost year), he hopes to do with La Petite Maison for French-Mediterranean cuisine. So far, it seems to be working. After 18 months, the Miami area is accomplishing so able-bodied it can abide bankrupt on Sundays and does not allegation to booty allotment in the summer Miami Aroma promotion.

With its terrace overlooking Biscayne Bay amidst gleaming, new high-rise condos and a audience that seems impervious to triple-digit entrees (including a family-style craven bowl that costs $160 and arbor of lamb that costs $175), La Petite Maison is allotment Cote D’Azur and allotment “Miami Vice.”

At prices such as these, it would accept been nice if my six-dish banquet for two was coursed with two plates in three courses, not three plates in two courses. And it would accept been nice if I did not accept to ask for beginning plates and argent amidst courses. The blow of dishes in the aboriginal activity fabricated things feel a bit rushed, as did the notification back anxiety were fabricated that diners are declared to be done in two hours.

Was this a high-end meal or a New York parking meter? Thankfully, the time absolute is not carefully enforced. My meal with wine, ambrosia and coffee ran 2 hours and 20 minutes, but no tow barter came to barrow me off. It’s a acceptable thing, because contrarily I would accept absent two abundant desserts, the artfully abiding amber mousse ($13.50) and French acknowledgment ($13.50), which may be the best ambrosia chaw I’ve had all year. Brioche is poached in milk and er, again boring caramelized, and served with a exhausted of housemade aroma ice cream. The autogenous of the acknowledgment tasted like ery custard. It was a curiosity how article so simple could be so sophisticated.

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The time-limit admonishing afore the meal began was about the alone bad aftertaste of the night. It gave the consequence of a all-around association attractive to about-face tables bound and hit their acquirement projections, not a aloof alcazar in Provence area you can blemish the linen with fresh-cut tomatoes.

C’est la vie. It’s still actual acceptable stuff.

[email protected], 954-356-4508. Follow my aliment adventures on Instagram: @mikemayoeats. Sign up for my account dining newsletter at SouthFlorida.com/EatBeatMail.

La Petite Maison

1300 Brickell Bay Drive, Miami

305-403-9133 or LPMMiami.com

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Cuisine: French-Mediterranean

Cost: Big-ticket to actual expensive. Appetizers amount $5-$49.50, mains $20-$175, abandon $6-$8.50, desserts $13.50. Account allegation of 18 percent (20 percent for parties of six and above) added to check.

Hours: Cafeteria noon-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 12:30-3 p.m. Saturday; banquet 6-10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 6-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Bankrupt Sundays.

Reservations: Recommended, by buzz and online

Credit cards: All major

Bar: Full liquor with ability affair and ample (23 page), big-ticket (few bottles beneath $65), French-centered wine list. No alfresco corkage permitted.

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Noise level: Conversational, loud back crowded

Wheelchair access: Ramp or four accomplish to access from street

Parking: Valet ($5 lunch, $15 dinner) or metered street

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