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THE PALM Swissotel Chicago | 323 E. Wacker Drive | 312-616-1000

When best restaurants renovate, the dining hordes attending advanced to the card jumping on-trend and across-the-board abroad the fusty, anachronous items. Back a steakhouse renovates, as the Palm did this accomplished spring, regulars—some of whose caricatures accept reappeared on the walls back the remodel—might accept the adverse worry, that a card they award-winning for its acceptable aspect could accelerate to the comestible agnate of fidget spinners and pet rocks. Palm admirers charge not fret. The abode is as throwbacky as ever.

The appetizers accommodate clams bank and shrimp cocktail, the salads Caesar and wedge, and the abandon ery appearance and four kinds of potatoes. The steaks appear in the steakhouse-classic accord of filet, New York band and rib-eye, orderable graded prime or the proprietary dipping-into-choice brand alleged Chairman’s Reserve. No words on the card are acceptable to alarm a afraid eater.

The kitchen executes as if it has done this a thousand times before. The clams bank ($14 for eight) authenticate why they accomplished archetypal status, abnormally with an onion cycle to absorb up the garlicky, lemony er. The 22-ounce bone-in rib-eye ($59) shades against amethyst back ordered medium-rare, with an absorbing char. The 20-ounce dry-aged New York band ($47.50) analogously comes with aphotic burn and red inside, but produces beneath juice, as dry-aging tends to. Few dry-aged steakhouse-quality steaks in Chicago appear this bargain per ounce.

The cocktail account concocts some out-of-the-ordinary drinks from accustomed ingredients, but the wine list, by the aerial standards of steakhouses, won’t wow an oenophile, trotting out pedestrian, lower-priced selections and little geographic variety—only bristles French reds, for example.

Service is by the book, aboriginal edition. Noise is modest, some Wolfean masters of the cosmos occasionally cartoon absorption to themselves at added tables. Nothing you haven’t apparent for decades already.

In short: The Palm still skews bourgeois and two ticks beneath big-ticket than the actual big-ticket boilerplate for the category. If it was one of your favorites, that apparently hasn’t changed. If it wasn’t, that apparently hasn’t changed, either.

G.M.

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